FAQs

About Us

Guardian Safe and Vault is an online retailer committed to providing the best prices and online buying experience of safes.

Location: We are located in Phoenix, Arizona.

Hours: We are open Mon-Fri from 9am-5pm MST

Contact Us

Email: Please submit a message on our contact us page and we will get back to you within 24 hours.

 

Satisfaction Guarantee:

We offer a 14 day satisfaction guarantee. If unsatisfied for any reason with an order, items can be returned within 14 days of the date of shipment. The item must be in its original condition and packaging. Shipping charges are NOT refundable, and you will be charged for freight To & From the point of delivery regardless if you were eligible for free shipping. Plus, there may be a 20-30% restocking fee depending on the manufacturer.

*For Return Information scroll down to the Returns Section below.

Price Match Guarantee

If our own website or another website offers the same product for a lower price within six months of the purchase date we will refund the difference.

Our 100% Price Guarantee has some limitations:

1. You must purchase the item from our website before requesting your Price Match Guarantee.
2. Promotions such as coupons, sales, rebates and buy one get one free offers are not eligible.
3. The item must be in stock on the competitors website.
4. The competitor must be an online store, they may not have a retail location.
5. The website cannot be a marketplace, discounter or auction website (ie; eBay, overstock, etc..)
6. The competitor must be an Authorized Retailer for the product in question.
7. The Price Match Guarantee is for the total price including the item price plus the shipping charges; it excludes sales tax.

To request the partial refund: E-mail us a link to the same product on our website, or on our competitors website within six months from the date of the order and we will process the credit accordingly.

Visit Price Match Page Here

Security:

This website is protected with 256-bit SSL (secure socket layer) encryption, the highest standard in Internet security and is scanned regularly.

Privacy Policy:

We value the trust & the privacy of our customers. View our Privacy Policy for complete details.

What We Sell:

We specialize in safes! Burglary, Fire proof, Home, Office, Gun, Vehicle Safes & more. We offer a large selection of products intended to satisfy our customers needs and budgets.

Site Navigation:

Our website is simple and easy-to-navigate allowing for searches by product name, category features or manufacturer.

Product Listings:

We provide all the information about each product right on the product page.

Help Center:

We have a comprehensive and growing 'Help Center' to answer any other questions.

However, we are always available to answer any additional questions you may have!

Create an account

1. Click the "Account" link at the top right side of our site and then click the Create Account button. Or, CLICK HERE to open the Registration Page directly.
2. Enter your name, email & password.
3. Enter your shipping address.
4. Complete setting up account.
5. The information is NEVER sold to any other company and is kept completely private. Please view our Privacy Policy for more information.

Edit account information

Visit the "Account" (link at the top right side of site)

Forgotten Password

Click the "Account" link at the top right hand side of our site. Under the login box there's a link that says "Forgot the password?" Click there. That link will send an email with the password.

Order Confirmation

1. E-mail confirmation is sent as soon as your order is placed. This means that we have received your order and pre-authorized the credit card for the purchase.
2. We then confirm that it is in stock and available for immediate shipment.
3. If the item(s) are available for immediate shipment (within 2-7 business days), we will process the charges and submit the order for shipment.
4. If the item(s) are on back-order or unavailable, we will void the pre-authorization and notify you via e-mail.
5. If tracking information is not received from us within nine business days of the order, feel free to follow up with us at [email protected]

Order Tracking

Once your order has been shipped, we will send you an email notification with Tracking Details.

If you haven't yet received this email notification, you can check your account by Visiting the "Account" (link at the top right side of site).

If you have further questions, feel free to contact us by email, chat or phone.

Change Your Order

To change your order, please contact us.

* Please note, once an order has begun processing or has shipped, we cannot make changes to your order.

Problems With Your Order

Order hasn't arrived

1. Visit the "My Account" (link at the top right side of site)
2. Be sure that all of the items in the order have shipped already.
3. If the order displays the Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that the packages were delivered.
4. If the packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance.

Order is missing items

1. Visit the "My Account" (link at the top right side of site)
2. Be sure that all of the items in the order have shipped already.
3. If the order displays the Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that the packages were delivered.
4. If the packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance.

Order is missing parts

1. Visit the "My Account" (link at the top right side of site)
2. Be sure that all of the items in the order have shipped already.
3. If the order displays the Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that the packages were delivered.
4. If the packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance.

Order Delivered with the Wrong Product(s)

If you feel that they have received the wrong product, you must contact customer service within 24 hours of receiving the product. Email us your contact details and product information.

Back Orders

We do not sell back-ordered items. If the item(s) are on back-order or unavailable, we will void the pre-authorization and notify you via e-mail. Backordered items are those which our suppliers are unable to predict when they will have more in stock.

Questions about Charges

1. Click the "My Account" to review the orders.
2. Compare the order history on our website, with your financial records.
3. Please contact customer service for further assistance.

Receipt - Invoice

Click the "My Account" link at the top right hand side of our site to print invoices.

Account Credit

Credits usually take 7-10 business days from the time we receive the item(s).

When is payment taken for my order?

Payment is taken at time of order. If paying by PayPal, payment is deducted immediately and automatically through our order processing system. For credit card payments, the information is recorded into the system and charged once the item(s) are verified ready for immediate shipment (within 2-7 days).

Sales Tax

No, we have no sales tax imposed on any order.

*Please Note: Some states require that taxpayers fill out a "use tax" return and pay the equivalent of a sales tax in their state. Please consult with state law to determine if this tax is due.

Quantity/Volume Discounts

We are happy to offer quantity discounts in most cases. Please contact us directly for a free quote.

Cancel an Order

As long as the item has NOT shipped and it is NOT a custom built safe we can easily cancel your order and credit the card or account the full amount of the purchase.

• If the item has already shipped please reference our return policy (details below on this page).
• *Note: It may take up to 24 hours to receive the tracking information once the order has shipped.
• If it is a custom built safe, the order(s) cannot be canceled after they have been put into production.

All orders canceled after 48 hours are subject to a $30 administration fee, whether or not the order has shipped. If the order has shipped, the buyer will also be responsible for all shipping charges to and from the destination.

Refunds will only be issued to the original credit card that was used when placing the order.

All Clearance or Discounted items are sold "as is" and are Non-Refundable and all shipping cost are non-refundable.

Exchanges

Exchanges are subject to in-store product availability and manufacturer policies. Please contact customer service for exchange inquiries.

Free Shipping is available for purchases over $299 (There's a Standard Ground Flat Rate of only $15 for Purchases $299 and under). Free Freight Shipping includes a standard shipment through the preferred carrier. Items weighing over 125 lbs are shipped LTL which includes standard curb-side delivery with lift-gate.

Safe delivery is included in the price when you buy from Guardian Safe and Vault. This is a curb-side tailgate delivery. That means they unload it from the truck. Moving it in is up to you. Some delivery companies will assist with bringing the safe indoors (or even installation) for an extra fee. You may ask them when they call to arrange a delivery time.

In-home safe delivery can be expensive. Prices are based on the weight of the safe, location in the home, stairs (three stairs is generally considered a flight of stairs) or other considerations like a muddy yard or new construction. That said, we recommend letting the pros do it. Damage to your home/office, or worse, your body is less likely.

Free Shipping for items weighing under 75lbs includes Standard Ground Delivery via the preferred carrier (FedEx, USPS or UPS).

Safes Over 2000 lbs: Safes weighing over 2000 lbs may not include tail-gate delivery. These safes are extremely heavy and should be handled by local professionals specializing in safe moving and installation. Safes that do not include tail-gate delivery, do include free shipping to a standard dock. It may be possible to arrange tail-gate delivery for an additional cost. Please contact us with inquiries.

At this time, we ONLY ship within the Contiguous United States.

International Destinations:

Unfortunately, due to several logistical challenges, costs and warranty issues we do NOT ship Internationally at this time.

To Check Your Order Shipment Status Online

1. After placing the order, check the "My Account" to track the status of the order.
2. A shipment confirmation is sent with tracking information when the order has shipped (usually within 24-48 hours of shipment).
3. Most safes are shipped within 10-20 business days depending on the product and manufacturer. Some safes are assembled at the time of order and may take a little longer.

How long will it take for me to receive my items?

Due to the nature of our product catalog and vast selection of brands, we are unable to guarantee an exact shipping date. However, if the item(s) are available they will usually be shipped within 10-20 business days.

Some of our items are custom built or assembled at the time of order and will take longer to arrive than items which are pre-manufactured and ready to ship.

Keep in mind that you'll still need to allow for transit time which varies depending on location. Additionally, some of your items may be warehoused at different location and will be shipped separately. Please watch out for our follow-up order emails. They will inform you when each item has been shipped and provide tracking information.

How will I know when my order ships?

Once an item ships, we will email you tracking information. Depending on the carrier an method of shipment, the tracking website may provide an estimated delivery date. You can contact the delivery company to confirm this estimate. Occasionally, some items are shipped with a carrier that does not provide tracking information. If that's the case, please call us and we can help you track the order.

How do you ship? What carriers do you use to ship?

All orders weighing over 125-150 lbs are shipped via LTL freight carriers, unless otherwise noted.

*The freight carrier provides either dock or curb-side delivery based on location.

Safes can be returned for a period of 14 days from the date of delivery. Returns will not be accepted without a Return Authorization (RMA) Number issued by Guardian Safe and Vault. Please contact Customer Service to request a Return Authorization Number.

The Following Conditions Apply to All Returns

• The Original sales receipt is required.
• The safe must be in new re-sellable condition with all original packaging materials, shelves, hardware, and instructions.
• Safes are subject to a 20-30% restocking fee based on the condition of the returned item and the manufacturer's policies. Any restocking fee is at the discretion of Guardian Safe and Vault.
• Customers will be charged for freight To and From the point of delivery regardless if the buyer was eligible for free shipping. All freight charges will either be prepaid by the customer directly to the carriers or will be deducted from the safe refund. Credits will only be issued upon receipt and inspection of all returned safes.
• Upon Return Authorization approval, Guardian Safe and Vault will provide the customer with the appropriate instructions for the return. Refund amounts are for returned product only. They do not include any shipping or insurance.

Parcel Shipment Returns

For all parcel shipments, the customer must notify Guardian Safe and Vault of any damages within 24 hours of receipt. Customer will also be required to provide Guardian Safe and Vault with a brief description of the damage. If the customer declines to keep the damaged safe, it will be the customer's responsibility to repackage and hold the safe until a claim can be submitted and FedEx, USPS, UPS carrier can retrieve the damage safe. The process can take up to approximately two weeks.

Unauthorized Returns

Unauthorized returns or returns without prior approval will be returned to customer freight collect.

Safes must be returned in the original packaging and must be received in an approved Guardian Safe and Vault warehouse undamaged and unused within 7 days of the issuance of the RMA (return authorization) number.

Damaged Returns

If the returned safe is received damaged it may be subject to additional fees. These fees will be determined by an authorized Guardian Safe and Vault representative or supplier and will be prorated according to the extent of damage.

Shipment Had Hidden Damaged

Occasionally there may be damage that is not apparent upon receipt of a shipment. Some freight carriers allow up to 15 days from receipt of shipment to accept claims of concealed damage, others do not.

After the allowable time of concealed damage claims has passed, Guardian Safe and Vault cannot assist with freight claims. For this type of damage, a replacement safe is not an option. Any discount will be given once the claim has been approved.

*SPECIAL NOTE: Do NOT sign for shipments until you have thoroughly inspected for any damage. Guardian Safe and Vault is not responsible for shipments that are not signed for as damaged upon arrival.

1. All LTL freight deliveries MUST be inspected for damage at the time of delivery. The banding will need to be cut and the box taken off the safe in order for proper inspection.
2. The safe itself should be inspected for ANY signs of damage to include indentations and friction marks. Any signs of damage MUST be noted on the delivery receipt for any discount or for a replacement to be possible. Guardian Safe and Vault MUST be notified within 24 hours.
3. Please note that the driver cannot leave until the delivery receipt is signed for. If you are uncertain of the proper procedures please contact Guardian Safe and Vault immediately.
4. Again, Do NOT sign for the shipment until you have thoroughly inspected for any damage.
5. Guardian Safe and Vault is not responsible for shipments that are not signed for as damaged upon arrival.

All freight shipped is shipped in an upright position, banded down to a wooden pallet. Any signs of damage, freight not being delivered upright position are justified reasons for the customer to require further inspection of the actual freight itself. If the damage is minimal and acceptable to the consignee, they will be required to make note of the damage on the delivery receipt at time of delivery prior to signing the delivery receipt.

Under NO circumstances shall the consignee discard the pallet or packaging material until the safe has been determined to be in good working condition and/or all claim issues have been resolved or until the delivery receipt is signed by the consignee in good condition.

Failure to follow the procedures above will remove all liability of damage from Guardian Safe and Vault and require the consignee to file any claims against the carrier themselves.

On items shipped via LTL (over 150 lbs), the date on the tracking website is typically the date the safe is delivered to your local terminal. Once it arrives there, dispatch will call you to schedule a delivery date. This usually consists of a 4 hour delivery window, Monday - Friday during business hours, barring any unforeseen circumstances. An appointment is set in order for you to be there to inspect and sign for the item. For items weighing under 150 lbs, the item will most likely be delivered without notification from the carrier. These items do not require a signature at the time of delivery. The tracking number would be the best way to estimate a delivery date or a call can be made to the carrier to confirm the delivery.

For residential LTL deliveries:

The Delivery appointments are made by the freight carrier. The freight carrier will be instructed to call you and schedule a delivery appointment when your order arrives to the delivery terminal. Guardian Safe and Vault is not responsible if deliveries are late or missed due to unforeseen circumstances.

For Business LTL deliveries:

All business deliveries will be made without an appointment during normal business hours Monday through Friday.

LTL Freight Delivery Limitations:

All residential and business deliveries made by these LTL freight carriers will be from a 48 to 53 foot tractor-trailer (semi-truck). If you are unable to accommodate a delivery from a tractor-trailer of that length then please contact a Guardian Safe and Vault Customer Service Representative.

The tractor-trailers will ONLY go down a driveway if there is enough room for them to turn around. They are NOT required to back down a driveway. The drivers come equipped with a pallet jack to assist them in moving the safe. If a customer's driveway is unpaved or too steep, or just inaccessible, the driver at his/her own discretion will move the safe as far as he/she may go or just deliver the safe to the curb of the address.

NOTE: Customers whom refuse the delivery because the driver was unable to provide the garage or even curbside delivery will be charged all shipping charges to and from the address of delivery plus a 30% restocking fee for the safe. These fees will be deducted from the original purchase price of the safe prior to refund.

Deliveries are made between the hours 8:00am to 5:00pm Monday through Friday. All customers must be available to take immediate delivery (1-2 days) of their order when contacted by the carrier. Customers whom cannot take immediate delivery due to the customer's unavailability may result in additional freight charges and/or storage fees.

Guardian Safe and Vault reserves the right to authorize a return of any freight that is found to be undeliverable where the customer, after repeated attempts, is found to be unavailable for contact. The customer will then be responsible for all shipping charges to and from the address of delivery plus a 30% restocking fee for the safe. These fees will be deducted from the original purchase price of the safe prior to refund.

Customers whom cancel their orders after the order has shipped will be responsible for all the shipping charges to and from the delivery address.

NOTE: In some remote rural areas, islands, toll bridge access areas, union states, ferry tolls, etc. may be subject to additional charges. If charges apply the customer will be notified before shipping for approval.

NOTE: Any address corrections, re-consignments, or storage issues due to freight being undeliverable will not be the responsibility of Guardian Safe and Vault and may result in additional fees.

Residential Curbside Delivery with Lift-Gate Service:

Includes the freight driver (only 1 person) unloading the safe from the truck with a lift-gate and a pallet jack. They will place the safe as close to the curb of the destination address as possible. Once, the safe is unloaded off of the truck it is the responsibility of the customer to move the safe inside the delivery address. This is not a garage delivery.

Depending on the size and weight of the safe, you may want to arrange for additional assistance in bringing the safe inside of the home.

• Please remember the size of the tractor trailer and certain safety precautions may prevent the freight carrier from delivering the freight at the actual curb or delivery address.
• It is the sole responsibility of the customer to coordinate inside delivery of the freight with the trucking company, sub-contractors, and/or themselves.
• The freight carrier is not responsible for the inside delivery of any freight and inside delivery is not a service that Guardian Safe and Vault offers.

FedEx, USPS or UPS are used on all safe orders weighing 90 - 124lbs (depending on product and distributor) or less.

Removing the safe from pallet: Warning!

Note: This is at least a two-person job, do NOT attempt to remove safe alone.

1. Close door and put handle in locked position.
2. With your helper, slide safe to the edge of the pallet slowly, either side will work fine. Tip safe so that the edge touches the floor.
3. Remove the pallet from under the safe and stand upright on to the floor.

We Recommend:

Professional Movers or Locksmiths Experienced with Moving & Installing Safes. This is our recommended method but we understand it gets expensive fast.

For the Experienced: A couple of DIY Tips

Refrigerator Dolly

A refrigerator dolly is a perfectly acceptable way to move even a very heavy safe.

Make sure you have at least a couple of strong people that are familiar with moving heavy objects.

This can be dangerous and you can easily be crushed by an unsecured safe sliding down stairs.

It's not as hard as you may imagine, though.

Tow Straps

A tow strap and a couple of strong people work, also. The strap gets wrapped around the shoulders of the two movers, and the safe gets physically lifted off the ground and walked to where it needs to be.

Want more about moving and installing your safe? Click Here!

NOTE: This is a GREAT reason to hire a professional if you are at all unsure of what you are doing. There is no way for us to individually advise you on this matter. Think Safety First! Aesthetics & Budget Second!

In General:

1. The best practical location is as close to a bearing wall as possible.
2. Place it perpendicular to the floor joists as close to the wall as it can be.
3. Distributes the weight over more of the floor joists, which is a stronger position.

NOTE: Just because there is a wall in an inner room doesn't mean that it's a strong site for a safe. The wall could be a partition wall with no real support under it and running parallel with the joists. This would be a poor location for a very heavy safe.

Will My Raised Floor Support a Safe?

We recommend consulting a professional to provide guarantees on this matter but here are some basics about construction that may help you answer the question.

1. A raised floor is a wooden framework that spans from one exterior wall to another.
2. Sometimes there's additional support placed underneath in the form of beams or girders.
3. Usually the framework is made up of wooden joists running parallel to each other at 16-inch "on center" intervals, but can also be 12 inches on center, or as much as 24 inches on center.
4. The joists are typically 2 x 8s, 2 x 10s, or 2 x 12s, and are capped on the ends by headers.
5. The ends of the joists are supported by bearing walls or beams. The size and spacing of the joists are determined by local building codes based on engineering requirements.
6. The sub-floor (usually plywood) is then nailed to the top of the floor framework. This is what the floor covering is attached to (carpet, tile, etc.).

Rust, Rust, Rust! Commit to regular rust prevention maintenance. Use a rust preventative made for guns, NOT WD 40; it's not for guns and develops into a gluey film over time.

Pistols may be kept in pistol rugs or UNZIPPED cases on the top shelf. Without air circulation you're likely to see damage in time.

Gun rugs or socks work well for long guns; ideally ones with silicone impregnation. While they'll help protect your guns, you'll have decide if it's worth the time and hassle of putting them on and off every time you access your guns.

You can store guns upside down using wood stocks or old recoil pads. They'll hold better when the oil leeches down from the action and onto the stock; which often softens and eventually destroys it. To prevent this store the long gun on its muzzle.

Value of Contents:

Determine the average dollar value of its contents. Are you securing $5,000 or $5,000,000?

Size of your budget:

Determine the amount you're going to spend. There's usually a safe to fit every budget/needs match.

Size and Interior Capacity:

Typically, bigger is better. Consider what you have to store now then add space for future additions. More will come: Firearms, documents, electronic devices, jewelry, photographic equipment, coins, and the next thing you know, it's full.

Don't be so concerned about the weight of a large safe. The square inches of a safe bottom spread the weight evenly, the same as a refrigerator or waterbed.

Read More About Size Here...

The answer to this depends on how much protection you require. We recommend a 12 gauge minimum basic security. However, if you require more reliable resistance to torches, saws, and axes, we recommend 10 gauge or thicker.

Read More About Your Safes Durability & Strength...

You'll find a bit more about lock types in section below. Click Here to read our Locks Page.

Combination locks:

The standard and the most reliable. Most also have a key lock in the dial. This key only locks the dial, preventing it from spinning. This is simply to keep your door locked or unlocked by not being able to spin the dial. Mechanical locks will always work, but take time to open.

Key Locks:

Key locks are easily defeated in most cases, and are generally used only in gun cabinets to keep the honest people honest. A key moves a sliding plate of steel to block the opening of the door against the frame. A crowbar and time will allow entry into most key-locked gun cabinets.

Electronic Locks:

Electronic locks are reliable, fast and you can set your own combination.

EMP Locks:

EMP stands for Electro-Magnetic Pulse.

Often combines an electronic keypad on top of a mechanical lock.

Biometric Locks:

Work by reading fingerprints. Place a finger on the scan window and it opens.

Prevalent in handgun cabinets for quick access.

Not as reliable as mechanical or electronic locks.

Live Bolts

Live bolts move when the handle to the unlocked door is turned. They retract into the door to unblock it so it can be opened. Higher end safes will have live bolts surrounding the door, with generally at least two on the top and bottom. It is incorrect to say that live bolts give better protection than dead bolts, but only live bolts may be used on the non-hinge side of the door.

Dead Bolts

Dead bolts are used on the hinge side of the door, and are simply protrusions of metal that prevent the door from being opened. They are static and do not move. They automatically prevent the door from being removed in case the hinges are cut off.

Number, Size, and Placement of Bolts

The more money you spend, the more live bolts you get and the thicker the bolts can be.

This is where the cost really starts adding up.

But, more is not always better when it comes to bolts.

Dead bolts on the hinge side will protect about as well as a live bolt will.

Security is essentially the same with either but external hinges let you open the door 180 degrees, whereas internal hinges only open 90 degrees.

Note: External hinges will also allow you to remove the door for significantly less weight during moves.

Securing Your Safe:

If a safe is stolen, it's probably because the burglars took the whole safe.

Most safes will have holes pre-drilled for anchoring bolts and most come with the hardware.

Fire Protection:

Fire Protection is a must in a gun safe.

Consider this for home or businesses that may have fires.

In most cases, a fire is a more probable cause of loss than burglary.

Click Here for More About Fire Protection

Humidity Control:

Humidity and moisture can destroy nearly anything you are looking to protect inside a safe.

We recommend getting a dehumidifier with you safe or shortly after.

Amalgamate/ Composite

Similar in many ways to poured high density concrete, Amalgamate refers to a blend of varying ingredients, often including concrete, that are poured in semi-liquid form to create the protective fire resistant outer casing on high end fire safes. Upon hardening, amalgamate acts as an extremely good fire insulator along with providing a substantial increase in burglary protection. The PSI rating and ingredients that comprise the amalgamate vary dramatically from builder to builder as each safe manufacturer attempts to achieve the perfect blend of both fire and burglary protection. This material is often times used in the door of a safe.

Anti-Pry Tabs

Anti-pry tabs are reinforced brackets installed on the top and bottom of the pin-bar brackets. They increase the security 300% from pry attacks.

Biometric Lock or 'fingerprint swipe'

Is an electronic lock with finger scan technology. Biometrics is the science and technology of measuring and analyzing biological data for authentication purposes, for example fingerprints. To unlock the safe you simply place your fingerprint over the scanner.

Bolt Coverage

Refers to how many sides of the safe door have locking bolts. The more bolts on the safe the stronger and tighter the door seal.

Bolt Work

Bolt work includes the large solid "Locking Bolts" that protrude from a safes door along with all the mechanical components necessary to support the functioning of those bolts, including the safe's locking mechanism.

Most safes come with 1 way bolt work, meaning the locking bolts run along a single edge of the safe door. 3 way bolt work doors have locking bolts that run along three sides of the safe door providing increased protection from pry based attacks while 4 way bolt work doors have locking bolts running along, you guessed it, all 4 sides of the door.

Densely clustered locking bolts only prove useful on a safe door or bolt carriage that is thin enough that it may bend or buckle during a pry based attack. In this instance, the extra bolts do provide some compensation for the insubstantial door. The door of a high security burglary safe (a safe with a half inch thick solid steel door or better) will not bend, nor buckle under the most extreme pry attacks.

Cam Locking System (Uni Force)

A superior, vault like cam system that engages the locking bolts and protects the lock from external forces.

Combination or Electronic lock with override key.

Allows the safe to be opened with just the key, no need to enter a combination.

Dehumidifiers for Safes

A safes necessity, they protect from moisture and humidity. Humidity spells disaster inside a safe. Moisture inside a safe means damage to the contents. Guns can get rusty, jewelry can tarnish and documents and cash will get mildew and smell. Photographs can be damaged so badly that they are beyond repair. Condensation inside a safe can speed the decomposition of medications that are kept inside. You spent good money to protect your valuables from outside sources, so why let them get harmed inside the safe?

Dehumidifying products (or desiccants) made with silica gel:

Silica gel absorbs moisture from the air, and everyone has seen silica gel in one form or another. When you buy a pair of shoes, that's what's inside those little square packets in the shoe box. You buy the shoes and then throw away the packet because half the time nobody knows what it is.

EvaDry 333

EvaDry uses water glass technology in making their high-capacity dehumidifier. These canisters contain specially designed crystals with a very high absorption rate to remove moisture from the atmosphere. They are available in different sizes and they are renewable.

The advantage of the EvaDry models is that they are self-contained in a canister. Unlike other desiccant products, you don't have to empty the canister (or sometimes a little cotton bag), dry it out in the oven at a low temperature for several hours, and then try to get all those silica gel crystals back into the canister or bag without spilling it all over the kitchen. Much easier said than done!

Dry-rod dehumidifier

Another type of dehumidifier is an electrical rod. These are called by all kinds of different names, like a dehumidifier rod, dry rod, golden rod or a heating rod.

A dehumidifier rod produces the same result as a desiccant; just in a different way. Once it is placed in the safe and plugged in, it gives off just enough heat to warm the air and keep it circulating inside the safe. All articles inside the safe will remain about 3 degrees warmer that the ambient air, which prevents condensation and evaporation from occurring, preventing moisture and thus lowering the humidify level inside the safe.

Keep in mind that this is an electrical appliance. Your safe must be able to accommodate an electrical cord and/or plug.

Hygrometer for moisture control

Damage from moisture might not be readily visible, especially if your safe contains only documents, file folders, or boxes. To keep an accurate watch on the humidity level in your safe, a hygrometer is a good idea. A hygrometer measures the relative humidity inside your safe, and the goal is to have 50 percent relative humidity. By using a hygrometer, you won't wait until it's too late to prevent moisture damage.

Dial Lock

Just as the name implies, these are locks that open by dialing a combination on a hand turned wheel. Dial locks require no power supply and UL certified dial locks are the most reliable of any lock type. 3 and 4 wheel locks are the most common.

Digital Media

Any electronic media that work on digital codes, like CD's, DVD's, USB drives, memory cards, hard drives.

D.O.J.

Stands for Department Of Justice, and for our products, refers to the California DOJ testing of many of our security safe locks, gun safes especially.

Drylight Insulation

Drylight insulation is poured between inner and outer steel walls for premier fire protection. It has a concrete texture but is lighter than concrete and extremely fire resistant.

Dual lock

Products with this type of lock system require both the combination and key to open the safe.

Electronic Locks

Electronic locks are opened by entering a numeric combination on an electronic keypad. These locks are the most popular lock type as they are faster opening than "Dial Locks" and often offer additional features such as multiple user combinations,."UL" certified electronic locks are highly reliable. Electronic locks do require a power source, usually a 9 volt battery. On most locks, the battery is conveniently located on the outside of the safe, just behind the keypad. If the batteries go completely flat, the safe will stay locked and will retain the combination. The user simply replaces the batteries and the safe is good to.

ETL

Formally Electrical Testing Laboratory, which is a division of Intertek Group, specializing in electrical product safety testing and performance testing. They are an independent testing and verification organization that tests to manufacturers specifications. More information is available on www.intertek.com.

Explosion test

Is a UL test for explosion, and means the product has been subjected to a flash fire of 2000°F (1093°C) for 20 minutes without exploding.

Firewall

Firewall is a fire resistant panel similar in many ways to a common household drywall panel. The majority of fire safes on the market use this paneling to provide fire protection.

Fire Rating

A fire rating is a claim that the safe can prevent the interior contents from reaching flash point temperatures 350° F (177° C) for a specified amount of time while the outside temperature is at a stated fire temperature.

It should be noted that fires usually travel through a structure, and that the average house fire ranges in temperatures of 900° to 1200° F, for approximately 20 minutes.

Standard fire safe rating:

This fire rating states the safe will to prevent valuables from reaching flash point temperatures of 350° F (177° C) for up to 30 minutes with an outside temperature of 1200° F.

2-hour proven fire protection

The two-hour fire rating indicates that the interior of the unit will remain below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1850° F (1010° C) for two-hours.

1 hour proven fire protection

The one-hour fire rating indicates that the interior of the unit will remain below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1700° F (927° C) for one-hour.

1/2 proven fire protection

The one-half hour UL classification indicates that the interior of the unit will remain at or below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1550° F (843° C) for one-half hour.

Explosion Hazard test

The UL Explosion Hazard test qualifies that the unit can survive a fire without internal or external rupturing. ALL UL fire classified products, no matter what the endurance level, must pass this test.

1/2 hour units are subjected to heat levels of 2000° F (1093° C) for 20 minutes.

1 and 2 hour units are subjected to heat levels of 2000° F (1093° C) for 30 minutes.

Floor Safes

A floor safe is a safe that is embedded into the flooring so that its door is flush (or nearly) with the ground and opens upward.

Gauge

Gauge refers to the thickness of protective steel plating used to encase the safe's body and door.

Impact test

Means the product is heated to temperature according to test standards, then dropped in rubble, cooled, inverted and reheated. In order to pass the test the product must remain closed and the contents must be intact and usable.

Hardplate

A small plate comprised of a variety of extremely dense materials designed to shatter, bind, or otherwise disable drill bits and other cutting tools that attempt to penetrate the plate's surface. The hard plate is situated between a safe's inner lock and door shielding the lock from direct penetration attacks.

Internal Hinges

Are ball-bearing operated and located on the inside of the safe and attached to the safe body.

There are several benefits of internal hinges in gun safes. They prevent a thief from tampering, cutting, or torching off the hinges; they provide extra resistance against prying or bending of the door; and the smooth sliding ball-bearing hinges add an automatic door stop to protect the safe walls from damage.

Locking Bolts

These are the thick steel bolts seen protruding from a safe's door. When turning the locking handle on a safe's closed door, the bolts slide into position behind the door jamb, anchoring the door firmly shut.

Omni Barrier Lock Protecting System

A carefully engineered structure of hard plate and other steel components that protects the lock from drill, punch or push attacks.

Palusol

Industry standard expanding door seal. Can expand 5 to 9 times its original size during fire in order to seal out smoke and heat.

Peril protection

Refers to the type of protection our products provide: Security, Fire, and Water.

Re-Locker

A re-locker is a mechanical device designed to permanently lock-out a safes bolt work the moment illegal tampering is detected. While re-lockers can take on a variety of forms, the most common re-lockers are small hardened pins placed at critical door bolt work locations.

The pins are under spring tension to close but are held in the open position by cables. The cables in turn are anchored to the safes internal lock. Should the lock become dislodged, the cables release allowing the attached relocking pins to snap firmly into predrilled locking holes along the bolt work. Once triggered, the safe cannot be opened until all tripped re-locker pins have been located and extracted, a lengthy process best performed by a professional locksmith armed with plans provided by the safes builder.

Spring Loaded Re-Lockers

Much like re-lockers except the spring load allows for it to lock-up the mechanism when punched or drilled.

If the lock's back plate is punched off, the re-locker fires like a mouse trap, permanently locking up the safe's mechanism. This keeps the locking bolts from retracting. Even if the lock is completely destroyed the safe is locked tight.

UL (Underwriters' Laboratories)

This is a highly recognized US based independent testing laboratory that tests and certifies safes in addition to a wide variety of other products. Any safe bearing a UL label means that safe has passed UL labs stringent requirements to earn the assigned rating.

UL Certified Lock

This is a lock that has been certified by Underwriters' Laboratories as a proven high security lock. Group 1 and Group 2 certified locks are the locks of choice.

Unibody Construction

Fully welded body construction. This means there are no seams in the front or sides of the top, which can be most vulnerable in attempted break ins.

Waterproof Ratings

A waterproof rating generally states that the safe can stand in 2 feet of water for 72 hours.

Water-resistant

Means products have been ETL tested and withstood 15 minutes of 1,000 gallons of water spray as well as one hour of standing in 6 inches of water with no damage to products inside the safe.

There are 4 Rating Types:

• Burglary Ratings
• Insurance Ratings
• Data Ratings
• Fire Ratings

Burglary Ratings:

B - Rate Safe: burglary rating

A safe with at least a 1/4-inch body and a 1/2-inch door. These safes face no testing and the presence of a locking device on the box gives them the B rating. When buying a B-rate safe, look at things such as the lock works, re-lockers and other features when making your decision.

RSC (Residential Security Container): burglary rating

This is an Underwriters Laboratory (known as U.L.) security rating (Underwriters Laboratory is the best known of about 500 non-biased independent testing laboratories). The safe must withstand five minutes of rigorous prying, drilling, punching, chiseling, and tampering attacks and must be tested using specific common burglary tools to prevent access to the contents.

C Rate Safe: burglary rating

This is defined as a 1/2-inch thick steel box with a 1-inch thick door with a lock on it. It must have hard plate and a re-locking device. As before, no tests are given to provide this rating.

Insurance Rated Safes:

E Rate Safe: insurance rating

It is normally a safe similar in construction to a TL-15, yet has not been tested by an independent testing company. It is normally a composite or plate safe.

ER Rate Safe (E Revised) - U.L. TL-15 Rate: insurance rating

Safes given a U.L. TL-15 rating have passed standardized Underwriters Laboratory tests defined in UL Standard 687.

This rating requires 1-inch solid steel or equivalent construction. 15 minutes of testing using common hand tools like drills and pressure applying devices.

• Front Door Tested - Tool Resistant - 15 minutes
• $150,000 Average Coverage

F Rate Safe - U.L. TL-30 Rate: insurance rating

The testing is essentially the same as the TL-15 tests but for 30 minutes and with a few more tools.

The testing engineers have blueprints and can disassemble the safe being tested before the test begins to see how it works. They know their stuff.

• Front Door Tested - Tool Resistant - 30 minutes
• $350,000 Average Coverage

G&A Rate Safe - U.L TL-30X6 Rate: insurance rating

The testing is essentially the same as the TL-30 test except that the safe is tested on all 6 sides, including the floor of the safe. Again, the engineers can disassemble the unit prior to testing and have access to the blueprints to see how the safe is built and how it works.

• All Sides Tested - Tool Resistant - 30 minutes
• $750,000 Average Coverage

Data Safes Ratings:

1 Hour - U.L. class 150 Rate Safe: data protection rating

This test is done to assure protection of computer data for one hour. The inside of the safe remains below 150 degrees for the entire test both in the oven and cool down period.

2 Hour - U.L. class 150 Rate Safe: data protection rating

This is a test done to protect computer data for a two hour period. The inside of the safe remains below 150 degrees for the entire test both in the oven and cool down period.

1 Hour - U.L. class 125 Rate Safe: data protection rating

This is a test done to protect computer data for a one hour period. The inside of the safe remains below 125 degrees for the entire test both in the oven and cool down period.

Fire Ratings:

Standard fire safe rating:

This fire rating states the safe will to prevent valuables from reaching flash point temperatures of 350° F (177° C) for up to 30 minutes with an outside temperature of 1200° F.

1/2 Hour - U.L. class 350 Rate Safe: fire rating

The one-half hour UL classification indicates that the interior of the unit will remain at or below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1550° F (843° C) for one-half hour.

1 Hour - U.L class 350 Rate Safe: fire rating

The one-hour fire rating indicates that the interior of the unit will remain below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1700° F (927° C) for one-hour.

2 Hour - U.L class 350 Rate Safe: fire rating

The two-hour fire rating indicates that the interior of the unit will remain below 350° F (177° C) when exposed to fire at temperatures of 1850° F (1010° C) for two-hours.

Fire Safe Types of Protection:

Fire-Board Insulated Safes:

• Most safes are layered with fire-board very similar to dry wall.
• This fireboard can be 1/4 to 5/8 of an inch thick.
• It has moisture in it that is released when heated in a fire.
• This keeps the interior of the safe cooler for longer.
• The more layers of fireboard, the longer it will stay cooler.

Composite Material Safes:

• Some safes have a composite material between two layers of steel.
• This composite material is similar to concrete, but usually lighter weight.
• It insulates from heat penetrating the interior of the safe.

K-wool Safes:

• A few safes use a K-wool blanket.
• Some manufacturers claim a 2300° for one hour fire rating, but there's no 3rd party verification.
• K-wool is usually used to insulate pipes because it can be formed around a curved surface.
• Pipes rarely need to be insulated to the same measure as home or gun safe, so beware.

Fire Rating – Types of Certifications:

Independent Fire-rating Certification:

Optimal fire test:

1. Safe goes in a furnace with thermal couplings connecting a computer to the inside of the safe.
2. The temperature of the furnace is ramped up to a minimum of 1,200° F in 10 minutes or less.
3. Then the temp is maintained for the duration of the test.
4. The computer monitors increases of temperature inside the safe.
5. When the internal temperature of the safe goes beyond 350° F the test is over.

Factory Certified Safes: No Guarantees on Quality of Test

A factory certified test is performed solely by the factory with no independent witness.

The rating could be a guesstimate based on:

1. The fire rating of the fire-board used without ever actually conducting a fire test.
2. Putting a safe in the middle of a dumpster on fire.
3. A furnace burn where the couplings were inside a phone book on the floor of the safe. (Heat rises, so you can imagine how inaccurate the test results are.)
4. A furnace burn with a ramp-up time of 40 minutes to reach 1,200°, then maintained for 20 minutes and given a one hour fire rating. Very deceptive.

Note: Not all factory certified fire ratings are inaccurate, but be aware.

Deposit or Drop-Box Safes

Depository safes are a popular commercial choice.

They provide the ability to deposit cash or documents without allowing access to the main safe compartment.

In most drop safes there is a hopper-like door located at the top of the safe.

This door is opened and cash is dropped inside to the body of the safe.

There is a standard door on the front of the safe with a lock to ensure only authorized individuals can access items.

Fire Rated Safes

Fire-rated safes are freestanding and designed to protect contents in the event of a fire.

They are rated for a specific period of time. *See Fire Ratings for specifics

Note: NO safe can claim to be truly fireproof.

Typical Features:

• Steel doors & walls – sometimes thin sheet metal
• Composite Clad housed within a layer of insulating material. *See Fire Ratings for specifics.

If you choose your safe based on its fire rating, also verify it's capability of burglar protection for maximum security.

Office Safes

Office safes are common in commercial industries like retail and restaurants.

They can be bolted to the floor or freestanding and are usually fire resistant with very high fire ratings.

They are drop tested to ensure the burglar will not gain access to its contents by repeated dropping of the safe.

They are similar in construction and design to home safes, but commonly use an electronic lock with higher security.

Data or Media Safes

Data safes are manufactured to protect priceless and essential information from high temperatures and smoke damage.

Items including and similar to: USB/Flash drives - Hard Drives – DVDs/CDs - Cassette tapes - Tape backups – Microfiche - Zip disks - Jazz disks

In Floor Safes

Floor safes are designed to be concealed in concrete on the ground.

A popular choice within numerous commercial fields due to the added security features.

High Security Safes

• Typically more expensive and common in commercial use.
• The most robust and secure safes you can find.
• High Security safes include the TL and TR categories of safes. *See Insurance Safe Ratings.
• Multiple barriers to prevent drilling and additional locking mechanisms to prevent entry.

Biometric Safes

• Ensure easy accessibility with utmost security
• Instead of mechanical locks and keys, combination dials or electronic keys, these use advanced features like electronic fingerprint scanners; face recognition, DNA or iris recognition thereby removing any possibility of unauthorized access to the safe.
• Most consumer biometric safes use fingerprint technology to recognize users.
• They take snapshots of the owner's fingertips and are locked or unlocked by fingerprint.

Gun Safes

Gun safes can be Burglar Resistant, Fire Rated, Floor Mountable, Biometric and more. What typically makes it a gun safe is the interior design has shelving and racks suitable for storing firearms.

The goal is, of course, to prevent unauthorized access to your firearms while simultaneously protecting them from damage.

Handgun Safes:

Handgun safes are small but effective security safes suitable for pistols, revolvers etc.

Fireproof Gun Safes:

Make sure you have a fireproof gun safe that exceeds 1200 degrees.

Being fireproof is the number one criteria for a gun safe since fire is 5 times more likely than being burglarized.

Security Gun Safes:

Designed to prevent burglary attacks.

Home Safes

Home safes are used to protect valuables and important documents or to secure firearms from children and burglars.

Combination Locks

Combination locks are rated based on their overall reliability and their resistance to manipulation. *See ratings for more details.

Not popular in commercial settings for a number of reasons, including the lack of security features often desired for high-value items. Plus, the time-consuming process of gaining (authorized) entry, and the fact that you almost always need a professional locksmith to change the combination.

UL Group 2:

Resistant to semiskilled manipulation attacks.

Less than 2 hour resistance against truly sophisticated and skilled safe crackers.

However, the vast majority of attacks against most safes can hardly be considered sophisticated or skilled so Group 2 locks are the most common locks available on most safes.

Considered insufficient for the TL-15 and TL-30 rated safes.

UL Group 2M:

Resistant to skilled manipulation attacks for up to 2 hours.

This is a subcategory filling the gap between Group 2 and Group 1 locks.

UL Group 1:

Resistant to skilled manipulation attacks for up to 20 hours.

Generally a very advanced mechanical lock that is precisely designed to prevent the workings of the lock from betraying the combination.

Only used on the highest rated and most expensive safes.

Considered overkill for any safe carrying less than a TL-30x6 rating.

Group 1R:

Resistant to skilled manipulation attacks for up to 20 hours.

U.L. specifies that the lock must be resistant to 20 hours of radiological attack.

*Radiological attacks are attempts to discern the interior workings of the lock (like x-rays).

Only used on the highest rated and most expensive safes.

Electronic Locks

U.L. Type 1 Electronic locks:

Highly resistant to expert manipulation.

Employ re-locker and have, at the minimum, one million different possible combinations.

No tumblers or wheel packs that could betray the combination.

No mechanical auto-dialers that can run through the many thousands of combinations; entering the wrong combination too many times will disable the lock for a time.

Completely radiological proof - cheaper equivalents to a Group 1R Combination lock.

Suitable for just about any safe.

The standard safe lock of choice for the commercial industry.

EMP Resistant Electronic Lock:

Protection from EMP attacks or incidents caused by a solar tsunami.

The S&G Low Profile and D-Drive Electronic Locks are EMP Resistant!

Additional Electronic Lock Features:

• Time Delay – used to limit the frequency of opening and to act as a theft deterrent. The delay can typically be set between 1 and 99 minutes.
• Time Delay Override/Armored Car Override – a specific code is set during the lock initialization that allows the lock to be opened by a forced override during a time delay.
• Opening Windows – similar to a time delay, setting opening windows takes the control of opening a step further. Any attempted opening outside of the pre-set time frames are blocked and ignored by the lock. Time frames are customizable, some common utilizations include minutes or seconds following a time delay, or a specific time of day.
• Wrong Try Penalty – also referred to as "penalty modes" this feature is available in most electronic locks to prevent an individual from running through various combinations quickly. Following the entry of a number of incorrect codes (the number of incorrect tries can be customized), the lock enters "penalty" or "lock out" mode. Depending on user settings and model, the lock may reset after a set time following the lock out and allow the same number of incorrect code entries, or may require the correct code be entered the first try to prevent re-entry of lockout mode.
• Dual Custody – this feature prevents only a single user from accessing the container. Typically two entry codes are required for successful opening. Typically given to two separate individuals, dual codes assist in deterring internal theft. The credentials aren't restricted to multiple codes, they could also include utilization of an electronic lock and a key lock, two separate locks or another method of controlling access.
• Audits – most electronic lock manufacturers offer products that allow audit trails to be pulled by authorized individuals with data reports including the number of times the safe was opened, the time of these openings, and the code used for entry. Loss Prevention departments often use these audit trails in internal theft investigations or determining extraction times.
• Duress Mode – an operating code is entered along with a number or series of numbers and through the location's security system or burglar alarm, alerts law enforcement of a robbery in progress. This feature only works when integrated with the alarm system; upon entry of the duress code, the lock is released and the container opened.
• Ability to Integrate with a Facility's Access Control System – allows the ability to interface with the location's existing access control and alarm system. This feature allows access to audit data in real time, increasing the visibility of who is accessing the safe. Many times this feature will operate in conjunction with the camera in the same room or office as the safe.

Dehumidifier Will Not Plug into the New Outlet Kit

The dehumidifiers have thicker prongs and it catches on the contacts of the new outlet kit.

Two simple solutions usually work.

1. Try to plug in another 3-prong plug that has thinner prongs. If it works, that usually spreads the contacts out and the dehumidifier will work.

2. It that doesn't work, file an angle on the tips of the dehumidifier prongs so that it creates a wedge. Plug it in and if it works problem solved.

If that doesn't work: Have then contact the manufacturer.

Key Will Not Turn

Verify that the combination dial is set at zero before attempting to turn the key. Make sure key is fully inserted before attempting to turn key.

Combination Opens the Safe Intermittently

Check lock-bolt pressure. Some free play should exist in the handle, left to right. Try dialing the combination again. Bolt pressure may be due to out of place interior shelves or improper personal storage (i.e. gun barrels, items too big for shelves).

Combination Will Not Open the Safe

Check lock-bolt pressure. Some free play should exist in the handle, left to right. Redial the complete combination stopping at "0" (before reaching "87"). Hold dial on "0" while rattling the handle left and right. Then turn the dial right until it stops at about "87".

PLEASE NOTE: If your lock still does not open, it is possible that one or more of your numbers may be off slightly from those shown in this manual. The combination number may have shifted slightly during shipping. Try dialing 1 up or 1 down from each number in the combination. If it opens with a new number, update your combination in this book and report it to the manufacturer.

Combination Dial is Tight or Will Not Turn

Verify that the key-lock is unlocked (jagged edge of key will be facing up) before attempting to turn dial. Check lock-bolt pressure. Some free play should exist in the handle, left to right. Bolt pressure may be due to out of place interior shelves or improper personal storage. Make sure the door is completely closed and the locking bolts are in the fully extended position. Normally dial tightness varies from safe to safe. Tightness of dial may increase or decrease as dial is being turned.

Combination Works and Handle Turns but Safe Will Not Open

Verify that the handle has been completely rotated in the open position before opening the door. Check the Allen set screw located on the front (center of handle under sticker) or side of the handle hub for tightness. Some safes are installed with a unique handle clutch mechanism. Improper personal storage or over tightening the door adjusting mechanism may cause the clutch to temporarily engage. Try pushing in on the door while pulling out and turning the handle. You may have to repeat this step several times until door is open.

Door Rattles When Shut

Adjust Door. Also, verify that the handle has rotated completely and that the chrome locking bolts are fully extended.

Door Will Not Shut

Verify that the lock is unlocked and the chrome locking bolts are fully retracted. Make sure the interior shelves are pushed back as far as possible, and that the floorboard is pressed down to the bottom of the safe floor. The handle should travel the same distance with the door closed as it does with the door open.

Door Shuts but Will Not Lock

Verify that the door is shut completely, the handle rotated completely and chrome locking bolts are extended to their locked position. Then rotate the dial to lock the safe. Verify that interior shelves are pushed back as far as possible, and that the floorboard is pressed down to the bottom of the safe floor. (For electronic locks see the next section.)

Chrome Locking Bolts Do Not Retract to Close Door

Verify that the dial is unlocked and has stopped on or about "87" before turning the handle. On models with electronic locks make sure the electronic lock is unlocked. Bolts may become dry and need oil. Use a cotton cloth and light oil to rub each bolt entirely, front & back of door.

Electronic Lock Will Not Open

1. The locking mechanism of a safe can, under certain conditions, place pressure on the side of the lock's bolt. This is often caused by something inside the safe pressing against the door or by something caught between the safe door and its frame. When this occurs, the lock will not operate properly. To relieve side pressure on the lock bolt, move the safe's handle to the fully locked position, (for direct-drive locks make sure the keypad is turned counterclockwise to stop), then re- enter a working code. The lock should open.

2. If the lock "chirps" when keys are pressed, but it will not open, the batteries may be drained to the point that they will not operate enough to open the lock. Follow the battery replacement procedure in this manual.

Electronic Lock Will Not Lock

1. If the lock "chirps" when keys are pressed, but it will not open, the batteries may be drained to the point that they will not operate enough to lock the lock. Follow the battery replacement procedure in this manual.

2. For single battery keypads, the battery may not be making good contact with the keypad terminals. To improve battery contact, remove the battery tray and bend down the thin metal contact tabs located inside the battery tray compartment at the top. Then replace the battery tray and enter your code a few times until lock begins to lock.

3. For D-Drive locks try the following.

1. Open the door all of the way and extend the bolts.
2. Slide the keypad housing away from the door (similar to changing the batteries).
3. Locate the spindle plate that rests against the safe door, directly behind the keypad.
4. There are two ears (tips) on the plate that are positioned between 12 and 2 o'clock. Verify the door is open all of the way and the bolts are extended to their locked position. Slide the two ears counterclockwise to the 12 o'clock position. The lock should click and chirp once. Try the handle, it should be locked.

Safe won't open: For most safes with an electronic lock:

1. Check to see if the safe is in "lock out" mode. Four (4) consecutive invalid combination entries will activate the "lock out" mode. Lock out mode is a 5-20 minute long period where the lock will not accept any combination entries even if the correct combination has been entered. The LED light will flashes red at ten (10) second intervals. At the end of the lock out period, two (2) more invalid combinations will restart the five (5) minute lock out period.
2. Dead or low battery may cause the safe not to open. Repeated LED flashing and beeping when you are inputting your combination indicates that the battery is low and needs immediate replacement. Make sure to look at the date on the battery before installing a new battery. Connect a new 9-volt alkaline battery (Recommended brands: Duracell™, Energizer™, Eveready™)
3. If you input your combination too fast, or if you miss a button, or if you put in the wrong code the lock may not recognize the code. Slow down while inputting your combination. You will hear 3 beeps if you input the wrong code. To clear the lock, press any key until you hear 3 beeps, then start over with your correct code.
4. Sometimes your door may not open after inputting the correct code. The locking mechanism may have too much pressure on the lock. Turn the handle(s) hard to the left (counterclockwise) then immediately right (clockwise). Try this a couple of times. Then turn the handle left and keep pressure on it in that direction while you input your combination. Then within 3 seconds of entering your combination turn the handle right.

Safe won't open: For most safes with a dial lock:

1. The lock may not recognize your code if you do not land exactly on the number.
2. Clear the lock and start over(4 turns to the left). Make sure you rotate the dial slowly and stop exactly on your numbers. Have your safe manual near by to check your combination and procedure.
3. Sometimes your door may not open after doing your combination. The door may have too much pressure on the lock. Turn the handle(s) to the left (counterclockwise) keeping slight pressure on the handle until you are done inputting the combination, then turn the handles right to open your safe.

Safe door won't close:

Look around the inside of the door and make sure nothing is interfering with the door closing or the bolts extending. Often the bolts may be blocked by shifted contents.

Removing the Safe Door:

The door can be removed from many safes. However, it is not recommended.

WARNING: Use caution when removing the door. It is very heavy and awkward to handle.

It is recommended to have multiple people to help handle the door. The hinge pins may fall on the ground during this process. Make sure to replace them in the holes they came from. Clean and oil pins if necessary.

Step 1: Open the safe door wide enough to remove.

Step 2: Lift the door straight up. Guardian Safe & Vault is not responsible for any damages to the safe, property, or personal injury during the removal of the door.

Transporting Safes:

Empty your safe first. Caution: Never move a safe with any contents inside. This can cause severe damage to the contents being stored and can possibly cause the safe to be locked in the closed position due to shifting of contents internally. In the event that you have to move the safe, it is best to have a certified safe technician maintain the safe after moving.

Bolting Down Safes:

Please, contact a local locksmith or a contractor. You may also call the manufacturer or us for FREE and we will help you find someone in your area.

Mounting stuff on the door of a safe:

WARNING: Modifying or changing the safe in ways that alter or effect the safe's intended operation or use will void the warranty. Most of our safes come with an interior that accepts hook Velcro. It is not advised to screw into the fireboard because it can damage the martial. If you mount anything to your door make sure it does not interfere with its operation. Open and close door many times and insure proper operation before locking.

Opening a safe for the first time:

In most cases your safe will come to you in the closed and locked position. Remove packaging materials but DO NOT DISPOSE of them. Locate your owner's manual on top of the safe or on the front of the safe. Locate your handles (if your model comes with them) in the packing foam or inside the safe. If you don't see handles in the packing foam then they are located inside your safe. To open your safe, follow the instructions in your owner's manual. Once your combination is complete turn your handle(s) or spindle to the right (clockwise) then pull door towards you. If your door does not open do the following:

1. Look for white foam packing tabs in doors and remove if possible.
2. Turn the handle(s) or spindle hard to the left (counterclockwise) than immediately right (clockwise) after inputting the correct combination.

Getting a new Owners Manual:

Please contact your safe manufacturer for replacement manuals.

Buy extra shelves:

Most shelves are available for purchase. Look at your owner's manual to find out what safe you have. To order call or email Guardian Safe & Vault at [email protected].

Safe Maintenance:

• For dial locks, we recommend a certified lock technician service the lock annually.
• For electronic locks, we recommend that you change your batteries annually and inspect your keypad for un-usual wear. (For example, button numbers beginning to wear away or buttons not registering.)
• Locking Bolts: We recommend that you lubricate the locking bolts annually with a little Vaseline™ or a petroleum based lubricant.
• Locking Mechanism: The internal locking mechanism does not require yearly maintenance. However, if there is a sudden or even small change in the feel or operation of the safe or lock, please contact Guardian Safe & Vault or a certified safe technician for immediate service. DO NOT LOCK YOUR SAFE if it is not operating properly. Failure to do so may lock you out permanently and a locksmith may have to drill into your safe.

Operating a mechanical dial lock:

1. Always turn the dial slowly and carefully.
2. Do not rotate past a number. If an error is made, start from the beginning.
3. Always view the dial straight on, not at an angle.
4. Use the Opening Index located at the twelve o'clock position.

For Most Locks

1. Turn the dial LEFT(counterclockwise), passing the first number in your combination three times. Then stop exactly on the number the FOURTH time around.
2. Turn the dial RIGHT(clockwise), passing the second number in your combination two times. Then stop exactly on the number the THIRD time around.
3. Turn the dial LEFT(counterclockwise), passing the last number in the combination one time. Then stop exactly on the number the SECOND time around.
4. Turn the dial RIGHT(clockwise) until the dial stops completely. Then turn the safe handle clockwise to open the door.

Change Safe's Mechanical Dial Combination:

Mechanical dial lock combinations can usually be changed. However, we highly recommend that a certified locksmith change your combination because if it is not done correctly then it could result in being permanently locked out.

*Customers can do this themselves but it will void your warranty if not done by a certified locksmith.

Lost or forgot dial lock combination:

In most cases, you can request your combination by calling the Customer Service of your safe manufacturer. When speaking with a customer service representative you will be required prove that you are the original purchaser of the safe and to show proof of purchase. You will also be required to provide the safe's individual serial number (located on the safe & in the user manual). If you are not the original owner additional information / documentation from a lawyer or sheriffs department stating you are the new owner may be required. This is required for your security.

Lost or forgot electronic lock combination:

If you have changed your factory set combination we will not be able help unless you had the manufacturer put it on file. This option is not available on all models. On some models, once the code is lost a locksmith will have to be contacted in order to open the safe.

Can the mechanical combination dial lock be replaced with an electronic lock and vise versa? This depends on the model of safe but in most cases the manufacturer can swap lock types. The lock change should be done by a certified locksmith or an authorized representative of your safe manufacturer. This can be done by the customer but will void the safe's warranty.

Entering the Wrong Code too many times:

With most manufacturer models, the lock will go into lock out mode. This normally lasts anywhere from 5-20 minutes depending on the lock itself. During lock out mode you will not be able to do anything to the lock and you may hear a beeping noise. DO NOT take out the batteries as this will only start the process over again.

Changing the batteries for the LaGard Electronic Lock:

1. If the batteries are not dead then open the safe and leave it open through the entire process.
2. Remove the screw from the black plastic battery compartment located on the bottom of the lock (on outside of the safe).
3. Remove the black plastic battery cover by pulling down on one side of the cover.
4. The battery and the attached leads will drop down out of the compartment. However, if they do not, then gently pull the battery until it does. CAUTION: DO NOT PULL BATTERY LEADS OUT OF THE HOUSING!
5. Unsnap the connector from the two battery terminals.
6. Before installing the new battery, press and hold zero (0) on the keypad for ten (10) seconds.
7. Connect a new 9-volt alkaline battery (Recommended brands: Duracell™, Energizer™, Eveready™)
8. Push the battery and the leads completely into the compartment. CAUTION: BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO PINCH THE BATTERY LEADS.
9. Install the black plastic battery cover and screw. CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN.

Lost back up key:

Guardian Safe & Vault dose not keep spare keys on hand. The Manufacturer of your safe may be able to order additional keys at an additional cost. Locate your key code number (usually found on the small cylinder where the key goes into or on the key itself). Some keys may not be available because of discontinued safe models. Allow 2 to 6 weeks for ordering. For immediate access, you will need to contact a locksmith near you.

Locked back up key in safe & the lock batteries are dead:

Some locks come with an external battery supply that can be plugged into the lock from outside of the safe. This will provide power to your lock so you can operate it and gain access. If your safe does not, then please contact the safe manufacturer for more information.